Sunday, April 25, 2010

April 2010

The month started with Easter, but no Easter eggs unfortunately as they are an unknown item in Jinja. However there is chocolate around so that has to suffice. Cadbury’s chocolate here is pretty gruesome, I have to say, but being a chocaholic there are times when I have to eat it. The only way I can do that is by buying chocolate with nuts in it to mask the taste. I have now discovered Moro peanut bars and they are much more palatable.

A couple of days ago I had put half a bar of chocolate in my handbag on the couch. I took it out yesterday, and without particularly looking, I broke off a piece and ate it. Then I sat down and put the chocolate bar on the table. After a short while I noticed an ant on the table. Then another one. I looked at the chocolate bar and there was a huge amount of ants swarming out of the wrapper.
I must have eaten some. I must have.
Mind you I believe they are full of protein and a natural source of vitamin B12. Great…
Anyway Jordan, Kira and I went to inspect my handbag, and found a huge trail of ants from the floor, along the length of the couch and going into my bag.

Ants are a big problem here. We are never without them. The kitchen is the worst place. Every day we have hundreds of them around the sink area and I must waste gallons of water swilling them away. Sometimes I use a spray like mortein, but don’t really like spraying poison around the house, and anyway it doesn’t stop them coming again.
One of John Bosco’s jobs is to do the washing up, so we leave the washing up from our evening meal overnight for him
to do in the morning. Even though I rinse the plates and dishes, by morning time they are covered with ants, hundreds of them.
You can’t leave any piece of food around, any food in the cat’s dish or even a dead fly around as the ants come out in their thousands.


We have a friend Craig, who recently moved from Jinja to Lira, further north. He is a white American who has adopted three special needs Ugandan children. As he is single, he employs a couple of helpers to look after the children and run the house. Last week they had what they called ‘The Invasion of the White Ants’. They woke up in the morning to find the whole of their large compound (garden) and part of the living room covered in white ants.
Living, as they do, a typically Ugandan life, they collected a big basin full of them, cooked them and had a white ant feast. Apparently they are equally as tasty as grasshoppers…


And seeing as I seem to have started talking about creatures I might as well carry on. Apologies to squeamish people.

(My mother says “Kim, I can’t understand at all how you can live there!”
)
Sometimes the cat catches a gecko. Although I know that the gecko’s tail falls off and carries on moving as a defence mechanism, I’d never actually seen it happen until recently. I was amazed at how the tail moves – manically! It twists and turns on the floor at an amazing rate of knots for a long time.
Mind you, it obviously didn’t work as a strategy as the cat completely ignored it and carried on with the gecko until Jordan freed it. I saw it the gecko a few hours later in Kira’s room, tail-less.

One nice thing about creatures is the frogs which live nearby. Every evening at around 9pm they seem to break into song simultaneously and sing for hours. It’s very pleasant listening to them.
Fairly often we'll get a – presumably - lost frog wandering around the house. They are very cute!


April is birthday month for Jordan and me. This year he was 14 and had a group of friends around. They had pizza and birthday cake and stayed up watching DVDs till 4am and then all had a sleepover.

Sandy, one of his homeschool tutors, had made him a birthday cake – a Raiders one (American football team). She baked it, decorated it, and left it on the washing machine. Unfortunately someone turned the machine on, it vibrated, and the cake fell onto the floor! She had to salvage it, but it looked pretty good.


My birthday was a few days later. It's hard to believe that the birthday card Kira gave to me
saying 'Happy 51st birthday' was actually for me. 51 is the age of your parents, not yourself!

A whil
e ago I was driving through a village when I saw a young boy, aged around eight, running around with a plastic bag on his head. I was horrified.
Life here is different, and so a hundred thoughts ran through my head – shall I stop and tell him? Shall I tell some adults? Will they understand me? Will they appreciate what I say? Is it safe to stop? Will they lynch me?

One of our friends in Kampala has lived in Uganda for many years, and she said to us “Ugandans are…, they are….” she searched for the right word, “they are …. unpredictable.”

This thought ran through my head too.
People in the villages think very differently to how we think, and I decided that there was a possibility that they may lynch me, so decided to carry on driving. But I still worried about the young boy.

I was telling Vicky, Kira’s teacher, about the boy we met last year whose family came here from the States to open an orphanage. They took in orphans from one of the villages, only to discover a year later that they were not orphans, but were actually the villagers’ own children and that the villagers felt they were onto a good thing by having their children fed, clothed and educated for free. When the family worked this out, they asked the villagers to take the children back, but the villagers accused them of child trafficking and the boy’s father was put in prison.
Vicky has helped set up an orphanage here, but as she is Ugandan, she understands how things work. If someone tells you a child is an orphan, you can’t necessarily believe it. Women in the villages often have many children – birth control isn’t commonplace – which means many children are unwanted, and the women may be happy for someone else to take on their child.
When Vicky was finding children for the orphanage, she went through a very rigorous process for determining whether they really were orphans. She went to visit the LC1 – first level of local government – the registrar, plus the probation service to check that there were no other family members who could look after them. She even insisted on going to the graves of the parents to check if what people were saying was accurate.

It seems very strange to us, but many people’s lives here are a world away from what we are used to in the western world.
Vicky herself has a sad story – she has seven brothers and sisters, six of whom have died. Two of her sisters died two days apart, from very different illnesses. This means there are quite a lot of orphans in her own family.

And so we still use the library regularly, though it isn’t easy finding books there we want to read. Fortunately there are now a number of new-ish books which have come via Book Aid International, Ranfurly library service which provides books to libraries, hospitals, refugee camps and schools in order to support literacy, education, training and publishing in a number of countries around the world. Given there are no real bookshops in Jinja, we are very grateful for this service!


There is a ‘Book exchange’ though. An English person living here brings in second-hand books donated from the UK. He puts them in cafes, and the way it works is that you take a book along, swap it, and pay 1000/- which goes to a local charity.
The range of books is small, and the longer the books are there, the more the English ones are replaced by ones in Dutch, German, Japanese etc, brought in by tourists!

Jon and I have been doing some more painting. He is producing a couple of paintings which will make his big painting into a triptych. Almost finished, I’ll include the photos next time.


Meanwhile I’ve had a few orders for my
paintings – seven in total. Three for a friend and four for another friend who wanted them for her children. She will take them back to Reunion Island. My butterfly one is my favourite.

I’m also in the middle of organising a Sports Day for Kira’s homeschool centre. There are now only three children there on a regular basis, which seemed a tad on the small side to hold a sports day.
Mind you, they would all get a placing in every event!

So we’ve opened it up to children from the pre-school, and home-schooled children plus tutors and parents, so it should be a decent sized turnout. Lots of eggs, spoons, sacks and three legs needed!


There are a couple of dogs who live in the compound at the homeschool centre. One of the tenants living there said one of the dogs was howling at night and frothing at the mouth.
When we went in in the morning the dog looked perfectly OK, but we called the vet. He doesn’t have a surgery, he visits the animals. I wasn’t there when he came, but accounts differ as to what happened. One says that the dog was showing early signs of rabies. Another says the vet said there was no sign of rabies at all but that he decided to put it down because he didn’t like the dog. Anyway, the dog was put down. The vet gave it poison to eat. This happened at the homeschool centre while the children were there. They were heartbroken.

And on a lighter note, Kira’s friends who are in the Baha’i religion had another celebration recently, Ridvan, which is a twelve day celebration starting on 20th April. We were invited along to the first day. It’s nice to see how different religions operate.

There was a lot of food there - Ugandans are keen on celebrations which include food. I like the Ugandan dishes – matoke (green bananas), sweet potato, rice, spinach, beans, groundnut sauce. All very natural foods, grown locally.


We buy quite a lot of locally grown food from the market. I worked out recently that we must easily buy 100 bananas a month! And that’s just for three of us, as Jordan doesn’t like them. They are very cheap and readily available and make up a large part of our diet.


When I was at the market a couple of weeks ago, it was so hot that I was starting to suffer from dehydration. I staggered out, went to the nearest mini supermarket and bought a carton of juice. That hasn’t really happened before, so it must have been a super hot day.


And talking of things that haven’t happened before – when Kira and I arrive at our house, she often gets out when we reach the gate, jumps on the back of the car and holds onto the spare wheel, while I drive down the driveway.
One morning she decided to jump on the back of the car while we went out of the driveway. She hasn’t done this before so I forgot she was there, and went sailing merrily down the lane until I heard a little voice shout “Mummyyyyyy!”

Friday, April 2, 2010

March 2010

We are very much in the rainy season now, with lots of spectacular storms and very heavy downpours.
At the beginning of the month I was caught in a flash flood while driving back to Jinja from Kampala. All of a sudden the main road turned into a raging muddy river. You would have thought that the Nile had broken its banks, the amount of water rushing along the roads, with the huge storm drains unable to contain the vast deluge.

Amazingly I was able to drive along - very slowly – though the people on their pushbikes were struggling a bit! They were up to their knees in it.

A man on a boda boda was holding onto the back of a truck and getting through it by being pulled along.


However whenever it rains things seem to stop working and we now have almost daily power cuts. You get very blasé about power cuts after a while, and if we are, say, eating our evening meal and it goes pitch black, we just carry on regardless.

I had to smile when reading about what people throughout the world were doing for Earth Hour (where people switch off non-essential lights for an hour once a year). We decided not to participate …

Not only do we have power cuts, the power we do get is what Jon calls ‘dirty electricity’. We get lots of power fluctuations and it is very common for electrical items to be damaged or even destroyed. I’ve lost my laptop because of it. Jon’s laptop battery now holds no charge; I have to charge my cellphone every day; the TV now
only shows pictures in blue and pink (we watched a black and white movie on it last week – it now shows in ‘colour’!) and the other day the modem stopped working. We decided to buy a new modem and switch internet providers at the same time. Orange has recently entered the Uganda market for cellphones and internet, so we are now with them.

Kira’s friends are in the Baha’i religion, and they recently celebrated their new year (Naw Ruz) on March 21st with a party that Kira went to. Their year consists of 19 months, each having 19 days and they are now up to the year 166.

We have some friends who come from Reunion Island, a small island to the east of Madagascar. They have recently been home for a visit and will be leaving here in June to move back there. They bought us a lovely book showing photos of the island and have invited us over there. It looks very beautiful, and we look forward to going.
We’ll have to brush up on our French though!


Recently I gave Moses, Kira’s craft teacher, a lift into town. He wanted to get a boda boda there. He made me park round the corner so the boda drivers couldn’t see me. If he had been seen with a muzungu they would have charged him more.

Moses has been running a project for a few street kids, teaching them crafts in a tiny, dark building. He has now managed to rent a large house in big grounds and will be able to house and organise education for 22 street kids. I asked him how he had managed to make such a big move. He said he had met a group of young adult volunteers from the UK who have rich parents! One parent provided 6,0
00,000/- (about £2000, $4000) to pay for 6 months’ rent of the building, while another parent held a coffee morning and raised the equivalent of 3,000,000/-
Some of the street kids are orphans, while some of them have parents, but once they reach a certain age (around 11/12), their parents throw them out and leave them to live on the streets.


There are many, many organisations helping people here. Uganda has the largest number of NGOs (non governmental organisations, i.e. Aid Agencies) per capita in the world. Every year millions of dollars, euros and pounds flow into the country. Yet despite that, there is still a lot of ‘need’ here.
International help, NGOs, charities etc are a double edged sword. While on the one hand they provide a lot of help, there is a huge amount of ‘learnt helplessness’ amongst the Ugandan people, an expectation that people will come along and help them, rather than working out ways to help themselves.
Jordan and I read a book about the Black Death as part of his home-schooling. The Black Death occurred in the 1300’s and part of the book described how people in the villages in England lived at the time. It’s how Ugandans in villages live now. It took me aback a bit to think that in 700 years many people here haven’t moved on.


One of Jon’s suggestions is that a great way to help Ugandans would be to have people come over and teach people driving skills, and how to be safe on the roads. The standard of driving here is very scary.


Anyway, I continue to write. A magazine I used to write for asked me to submit some articles, and I’ll be having four published in their next editions. A bit of an eclectic mix: Using Failure as a stepping stone to success; Do you want a job, career, or vocation? Women in business – how to juggle life’s demands; Marriage is a mathematical relationship.

I’ve also made one of my books into an e-book: Better Speaking Better Thinking. I never run out of ideas for books to write.

Kira had a friend stay over last night. In the morning they got up early and made breakfast for us all.
Jordan will be having his 14th birthday party on Easter Sunday, and will have friends sleep over. At the last sleepover they stayed up watching movies till 6am. Jon has told them he’ll expect them to prepare breakfast in the morning too …